Time has come for my serious meet with Prokupac. It is a native Serbian red variety mostly grown in the central part of the country. In Bulgaria, we never associate Serbia with wine, and when we do we think white: Smederevka or Karlovački Rizling at the Exit Fest in Novi Sad, or Krstač for those spending more time in the country, for that matter.
I tried a number of Prokupac wines in my Serbia travels over the last year. I was impressed by the combination of vigour, elegance and rusticity. Of course, it's different when you're home and the wine you chose to buy is all now at your disposal for a serious scrutiny.
I am trying the 2011 Prokupac by Vinarija Ivanović, Aleksandrovac, 14%. I bought the wine in Belgrade in May of this year but
waited for the autumn to settle over the Balkans in order to try it in the more
appropriate of atmospheres. This is medium to
light bodied and quite the choice for September or even August, if we have to
fall for those season/wine considerations. But it's 6 degrees centigrade in
Sofia now, and the juice is just perfect. It displays wild plum, raspberry and
redcurrant on the nose, and a bit of oak. I decanted it and waited for only half-hour
for this, but for a 2011 Prokupac I think it's okay. On the palate the acidity is pleasing; it's again the redcurrant.
What makes this special is the saltiness and the coffee nuance in the
aftertaste. Rustic, red Balkan openness on a powerful display.
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