Alsace wines

They were not as friendly as I had been told. They simply were living on on this blessed bit of the earth, self-sufficient, reflective, sometimes happy with the visitors going by along the Vins d'Alsace route. They needed a spur to start talking.

I visited Strasbourg and Riquewihr. I tried Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Pinot Noir. The complete afternoon experience is called Sylvaner. Very unpretending, light wine. Acidity is mind-shattering in all Alsace wines. Especially in Pinot Blanc. You should have Sylvaner on its own. But do pair the Pinot Blanc with some fresh salads or baked Alsatian flam (a kind of pizza but the original version boasts only cream, onions and at times bacon).

I was not impressed by the Rieslings. I like the German breeds more. Yet the lady serving us at one tasting got hurt after I said I didn't appreciate the Riesling much. Indeed it was wayward, escaping the nose and the palate, somewhat freaky Riesling, an ephemeral one. She drew out a 1990 'no-oak' pearl in half-bottle. I was stunned. It was something honeyy and elixir-like, I didn't expect a white would stand such years (though Rieslings love to sit by for some years).

I dived into the Pinot Gris. This is true Alsace. I rarely find such balance between fruit and minerality. Freshness is always present, as I said.

And the Pinot Noir is so tannic! Quite unusual for this grape... Yet there, there everything works for itself.

I love Alsace and I will be there again. I didn't take full advantage of the castle side. Do go and eat it, Alsace is unique.